MBFW SS 2011 Saturday: Vivienne Tam


Vivienne Tam moved away from her signature East-meets-West aesthetic with a spring 2011 collection that was more beachy and bohemian than tailored and elegant.

The show opened promisingly with a series of crochet and lace garment in muted beiges and soft ivories. Wearable, sixties-inspired shift dresses and seventies-inspired belle-sleeves were unassuming, while a relaxed, ankle-length drawstring pant in cream lace was striking. Light-weight denim played prominently in the collection and was used most successfully in Asian-influenced jacket and vests featuring mandarin collars and silk, frog-buttons.

The third pass was a series of nondescript ethnic prints in blue, green, and red separates worn together indiscriminately and accessorized with chunky jewelry and appliqués that seemed crafty, not artistic.  A silk, gypsy blouse was attractive and a silk bubble pant that knotted at the ankle was fresh in a variety of patterns, but the duo of tank dresses overlaid with sheer, pink lace tunics looked dangerously similar to grandma’s tablecloth. Details such handkerchief hems and crochet–necked halter tops came off as unoriginal, even sloppy.  

While there were some covetable garments, overall “The New Silk Road” collection tread no new ground.

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